I bought these to power a radio using a power supply with binding posts. So far so good. They were easy to install on the positive and negative wiring. They power the radio well and I've not had any issues yet.

They make firm contact with the socket and are easy to attach wire to. You might have to fold the wire over a few times to get the screw to hold properly but this presents no problem.

The product itself seems pretty decent. The set screws do easily fall out when you first open the bag so be VERY careful because they are tiny. They do hold my wire fairly well especially when I use a ferrule. I haven't tried soldering them through the set screw hole but that's on my list. I don't care for how faded the colors are compared to other listings but they are cheaper so I went for these. Magnets don't pick up the banana plugs so I'm hopeful they are actually nickel plated copper but they seem way too light for that to be the case. If I have issues with soldering or passing high current I will come back to update.Now here's the problem with the measurement:So I read the description and saw the maximum wire size was 3.5mm. Did the AWG to mm conversion (this is diameter not the mm squared area!) and it showed the max AWG I could use was 8AWG....if you are thinking to just use the diameter of the conductor and not the insulator.I suspect the 3.5mm diameter is the entire diameter of the wire including the insulator because I cannot get 12 AWG through the rubber boot. The overall diameter of that wire is 4.5mm so I'm attempting to use progressively larger drill bits to remove enough material to pass the 12AWG through the boot. I think I might be able to get this to work but the rubber boat will be extremely thing along the back side. 12AWG does fit inside the plug itself quite nicely. BNTechGo sayis its a max OD of 2.4mm but most charts have it just over 2mm. Maybe finely stranded silicone wire is different from THHN or whatever.The whole purpose of these high current banana jacks is to pass high current. Now I realize that for my project, putting two HP DPS 460W server power supplies in series, I should be using bullet connectors (6mm or above) to properly handle the gauge of cable I want to use. I believe the max current I'll have on tap is 33A which could be sent through a short run of 14AWG fine stranded copper wire with 200 degree Celsius silicone insulation but I prefer to oversize most of my wiring. If you plan on doing the series mod to two HP DPS server PSU's and you are using the 800W or 1200W models then you absolutely can't use 4mm banana jacks since the current levels are in the 50A or 60A range. I would assume XT90, 8mm bullets, or some similar connector would be the ideal way of adding pluggable connectors to the PCB strips on the back of these common port fslot PSU's. I have seen others drill holes through them and mount terminal strips. If you're reading this and thinking about series connecting two PSU's DON'T DO IT. Steps must be taken to make them safe and it varies from PSU to PSU. RC Groups forum is where I found the info for the HP DPS series (its the same as the 1200W model pretty much, there is no thread on the 460W model). You can buy a nylon screw kit on here of M3 screws of various lengths, washers, and nuts. I suggest buying a kit and not buying one length of screw but if you do I found the 10mm or 12mm work best and using nuts instead of a stack of washers gives you more rigidity.I was very happy with thishttps://www.amazon.com/QTEATAK-Plastic-Screws-Gasket-Assortment/dp/B0B17JHRKV/ref=sr_1_6?crid=252VV7LB8QG1J&keywords=nylon+screw+kit&qid=1673039883&s=industrial&sprefix=nylon+screw+kit%2Cindustrial%2C163&sr=1-6

The only type I can recommend here.