As others have noted, it comes on a cheap plastic spool that can't withstand drying. This should really be dried at 120C and the spool won't take even 70C.That said, it came vacuum packed and seems dry enough at least initially.I threw it into my Qidi X max 3 and printed a functional part just guessing at the settings from reading reviews... I used 0.4mm nozzle, 0.7mm line width, 0.24 layer height, 65C chamber temperature, 120C Bed temperature (PEI with glue stick), 305C extruder temp. No chamber fan, 50% cooling fan for bridges only, 50mm/s speed.Part came out beautiful only the bridging wasn't great. No warping. Could probably refine it but I got a tough functional part right away. Threw it in my oven at 150C to anneal it and it didn't deform at that temp so it can definitely take some heat.

TL,DR: The Filament is too wet to print out of the box and the spool can’t survive the drying/printing temperatures required for polycarbonate and will melt.Well, I was going to do a full review on the Polycarbonate filament but after what happened in the drying process and the initial condition I received the product in, I’m going to have to say DO NOT BUY! I would give this product 0 stars if possible due to the massive PITA that it would be to actually use a spool of this PC filament. If the spool I received is any indication of how others would receive the material it will be nearly unprintable for most people that have an off the shelf 3D printer. For some background I have a custom-built water cooled and enclosed 3D printer that can reach a chamber temperature more than 110* C (Highest I’ve ever had a need to set) with a heated bed that can easily hit 150*C and a nozzle capable of getting to 500* C. I normally use 3DXTech PC filament to print functional parts with the printer no issue So I know the machine is capable. I wanted to try this filament because it’s about 1/3 the cost for a supposedly equivalent product.When I first opened the package, the vacuum sealed bag was not fully vacuumed, which led me to suspect rightfully that the filament was not dry. Turns out it was worse than “not dry” it was unusably soaking wet. I loaded the filament out of the box to get a feel and see if I could even print a test block and the purge told me all I needed to know. The filament spit out of the nozzle popping, sputtering, and literally steaming. After the extruder stopped feeding it probably spit out another 5-7 mm worth of filament from the steam pressure it generated. I immediately unloaded the filament and set up the enclosure to dry the filament. Since I couldn’t find any specs on drying from Gizmodorks, I treated it like any other roll of near pure polycarbonate and dried it for 4 hours at 120*C. This worked quite well for the filament as the filament then extruded cleanly, however nothing else was good about the product.I’m glad I did a full drying cycle, because had I not done that, the failure could have been much worse if the spool melted mid print. Rather than being out the price of this spool and some chipped glass on the build surface, it may have caused damage to the printer otherwise. Turns out to use this product you will have to immediately transfer it to a new spool that can survive the temperatures to dry and print with the filament, and then dry the filament in a system that can get hotter than any filament dryer on the market that I’m aware of. Then I can’t even guess how it prints since the spool entirely failed before I could even print a test cube. The spool that the filament is wrapped onto seems to soften at 50-60*C and completely melted at the temperature required to dry the filament at (See picture). I plan to call Amazon and see if I can get a customer support rep to allow a refund of the product since it failed so horribly but I doubt I will be getting my money back for this one. Can’t speak for any of the other filament but if you are here for polycarbonate, look elsewhere.

Esta hecho de PC puro, necesitas condiciones de temperatura altas para utilizarlo

Once dialed in this material is very rigid and temperature resistant. More so than any other material I have tried. So it is a must have for printing parts for your printer anywhere near the hot end if you have a heated build chamber and print high temp materials regularly. The PC blends tend to deform over time and you have to keep printing new parts to keep the machine dialed in.I took away 2 stars for how badly the spool was wound. It is tangly and give resistance to the point of intermittent under extrusion and even creates layer lines throughout the print in the z axis as the resistance from the spool tugs upward on the hot end (direct drive) making it flex ever so slightly temporarily increasing offset and then the spool loosens up and it returns to normal position creating a squished subsequent layer. I did not get good prints until I Re-spooled the filament BY HAND! It took over an hour!I found layer adhesion improved all the way up to 335c. If you are buying this for real pc strength, be warned you will not get that strength unless your machine can go north of 300c.I used purple glue stick on freshly sanded garolite at 105c and got great adhesion. Be sure to let the glue stick bake for 4-5 minutes before starting your print.Print some temp towers and keep increasing the temperature until the print quality starts to diminish and then dial back slightly from that. Bam! Insanely strong parts with the highest temp resistance of a thermoplastic short of peek. Hope this helps.Gizmodorks, this material is amazing, having to completely re-spool it by hand to get it to print properly is unacceptable.**Edit: this stuff really likes to warp. It will even crack itself once you have convinced it to stay put on the build plate. I have had to go as far as redesigning parts to combat the warping and incorporating anchor feet and break away hook anchors that extend to the build plate with feet and grab on to the support material (uncheck “supports on build-plate only”) holding the part down while it prints. I have also bumped up my nozzle temp to 335c. Again, this material is a beast and blows away anything I’ve used. But if you are not prepared to engineer your parts specifically to print with this materials extreme properties, then this is not the material for you**

Great PC filament! FYI this may be pure PC or very close to it, it definitely warps unless you have your setup correct. At first, it seemed others who gave this filament a negative review may have been right about the warping and layer separation. But after a few days of tweaking settings and figure out the bed adhesion for this I finally got it down to where it prints strong and beautiful as the Polymaker PC Max which I've gone through 4 rolls of. I'm glad the PC max has been out of stock because I would've never tried this brand of PC and this is probably my go to for PC filament now. Printed at 285C/130C on a creality machine, The key to minimizing/reducing warping is to have an enclosure with a high bed temp >=130degC and the bed adhesive. enclosed, with print bed adhesive. The enclosure temperature at nozzle level stabilizes at about 46degC and my prints are no longer warping.

Update: I have had this spool for almost 3 years now. Everything I have printed with it is still in service, and the filament is still good. I am updating my review before buying another spool. I switched printers twice. I have great luck printing with this directly on a steel sheet (the back side of my PEI plate) with magigoo PC on a 120c bed.I read all of the reviews of gizmodorks polycarbonate before buying and came up with a few conclusions.1. Most of the negative reviews sound like people who don't understand the differences of printing with polycarbonate.2. Moisture is a big problem, expect to have to dry the filament.That said, theey seem to have addressed the packaging complaints, mine came very well vacuum sealed. It doesn't seems to have absorbed any moisture.As far as printing, it's been very nice. It seems to run a bit small, but you should calibrate every spool of filament.I'm running this at 285 on a 120 degree bed at 60-80 mm/s out of a 0.4 nozzle on an e3dv6 on a rostock max v2 with an accelerometer bed probe. The print surface is pei with glue stick on it. I had a small adhesion problem, so I added a 5mm brim and haven't had any issues since. It basically prints like abs, just hotter. I haven't gotten my bridging settings nailed yet, I suspect it needs to bridge at a higher speed to let it cool a bit faster, but it isn't terrible at the 20mm/sec bridge speed I'm using.I also haven't noticed it looking purple like some people have said.Attached are a couple of images of a cnc bit fan I printed with this. Came out really nice!