No hay artículos en el carro
No hay artículos en el carroMarilynn Freymeyer
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 29 de marzo de 2025
Lots of pieces, instructions were excellent! Very sturdy.
Michael herrera
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 6 de abril de 2025
Very cool, takes a long time to put together. But I love it
Bobby McConnell
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 1 de abril de 2025
Exactly what I needed to add extra counter and storage space in my small kitchen.
Linda
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 8 de diciembre de 2024
I love all the extra storage. Easy to put together,very sturdy and I love that I can move it easily if I need. And it pretty cool looking 🥰
350ZMO
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 2 de noviembre de 2023
Yaheetech Kitchen Island Cart with Stainless Steel Countertop, Rolling Kitchen Storage Cabinet on Wheels with 2 Drawers and Inner Adjustable Shelves for Dining Room, 50.5 Inch Width, Black purchased on October 9, 2023 for $182.99 and Sold by: Yaheetech.TLDR: Looks half decent, fairly sturdy, decent size and most importantly CHEAP.We looked for quite a while and finally pulled the trigger on this one. Shopping factors were price, color (desired a black or gray), silver hardware (never gold), 2 doors and 2 drawers, stainless top and size (ideally 48” x 18”). This only has a 42” wide top (met the 18” deep) which given the price advantage we decided was acceptable. The nearest full 48” at the time was another hundred more which didn’t meet our fancy. Overall, the lowest price was the greatest factor.Metal, even Stainless, no matter how thick or thin, will always dent and scratch, differing only in how much abuse they are subjected to. And they always show finger prints and smudges. If you are not prepared for this, then get the wood. To those who didn’t know this and just learned the hard way, all is not lost. If you are that distraught, remember you can always resurface the top. Just put on whatever you like, a sheet of polycarbonate, a rubber mat, a wood top, another sheet of stainless or even ceramic tiles. For that matter, if you get a wood top and didn’t like it, just resurface it. I was considering that, buying a wood top island and throwing a piece of 1/8” aluminum on it then we saw this. For the price it tickled out fancy. The stainless is ~1mm thick (I mic’d 0.9mm), MDF backed and non-magnetic. The thickness is standard fare for appliances. The Non-magnetic was a surprise. And yes the door and drawer pulls are also non-magnetic. I’m fairly confident the pulls are die cast but the top is definitely stainless steel and not aluminum as one reviewer called it. Even though some of the grades like 304 and 316 have iron in their chemical composition, they are austenite steels which are non-ferromagnetic. Austenite also makes the steel stronger and tougher and is typically used in cutlery, sinks, storage tanks and the food preparation/service industries. I’m fairly confident this stainless is a kissing cousin of, but not exactly 304. Also, the stainless is backed with a wood/MDF “window pane” reinforcement backer so it is stronger and doesn’t ping so bad when you drop something on it.We wanted the stainless look to match the rest of our appliances, plus we like stainless because it is easy to sanitize and easy to see when it NEEDS sanitized. Scratches and dents to us are just “racing stripes”. Also, I prefer a metal top under the bottom of toaster ovens.I decided this island which we are using as a toaster oven cart/storage cabinet, needed to be electrified. Using a metal outlet box, receptacle and cover with this cord made this a cinch:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5KHWHMT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1Strain relief here:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09P85WQTG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1So now let’s talk “particle board” as one reviewer mentioned. There is no “particle board” in this unit. There is also no OSB. The three slide in back panels and drawer bottoms are more appropriately and perhaps more accurately termed surfaced pressboard or hardboard and definitely not plywood. The rest of the cabinet is surfaced MDF a.k.a. “Engineered Wood”. The only solid wood piece I could find on this thing is the towel bar. This is standard fare at this price point. Yes the wife and I looked at solid wood units with “granite” tops that are priced around the 1 to 3 grand range. Then we got real and bought this.As many have pointed out, there is a large gap between the doors and there is not enough adjustment in the hinges to get it all out. One could put a 1/8” shim behind each hinge. Another method is to apply a strip of 1/4” door sealing foam along the edge of a door on both sides, then adjust hinges so they close but don’t drag:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C7N39SD7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1Try to keep the foam strips rear edges flush with the backside of the doors, this recesses the foam back from the door faces slightly for a more aesthetically pleasing look.The door hinges are “slow closing”. The drawers have wheels and guides but are standard “slam shut”. A couple squares of 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/8” thick foam on the bottom corners solves this. No need to also buy 1/8” foam, I just sliced the 1/4” foam with a razor blade.This island has five wheels, there is one right in the middle. The height from floor to under bottom clears our floor vent deflector. And yes, these are cheesy basic wheels, hard plastic, not rubber, no ball bearings and the two with wheel locks do not lock very easy nor grip the floor well. The dimensions picture shows the ground clearance to be 3.4”. I measured this one at 3.125” i.e. 3 and 1/8”.The towel bar is a solid wood dowel, ~1 inch in diameter (I mic’d 25.1mm). The other end is a rack for spices, condiments and has a small diameter and thin wall stainless steel tube as a “rack rail”. Either or both of these end attachments can be left off leaving two barely noticeable through holes in the sides.In mounting the center doors I had stripped the hinge screws in the MDF center divider on one of the inside doors. I decided to through drill the holes and use bolts and nuts instead of wood screws here. I used four #8-32, 1 and 1/4” long screws and four hex nuts.Other than that one faux pas, assembly was a breeze. And yes there was an occasional “one extra” hardware piece. However, I decided to use smaller screws to attach the wheels which I had on hand and save the larger screws provided for another project. You should use the provided screws.The picture instructions (pictions) were clear and accurate. And yes you can leave either or both the towel bar and condiment rack off. There are four holes drilled through both end panels for pass through of long wood screws to mount these extras. So if you leave them off, you can either plug the holes or not. I would use black calk or RTV if they bother you.Also, all the pieces were labelled with circular numbered stickers, not that they needed to be, with the exception of the three obvious slide in back panels. The labels that were present, accurately matched the pictions. Not everyone is as inclined as the other. I can see where some will find this challenging particularly if theirs aren’t labelled nor labelled correctly, but it is no more or less challenging than any other prefab MDF piece of furniture I have ever slapped together. This one went together so well due to the precision pre-drilled holes, and felt so sturdy, that I did not feel compelled to take it all apart and sand and glue every single joint. It did take a couple hours to assemble moving at a careful pace. And I took the time to remove the stickers although sticker placement was, for the most part, hidden when assembled.It does suffer as they all suffer unfortunately. MDF will strip out more easily than solid softwood so be careful. If you look on the end of the cam lock pins, you will see course threads. This is the end that goes in the MDF and while the threads are correct, they are NOT long enough. But alas, I have not seen anyone get this right in prefab furniture. They are always too short. So be careful when you are screwing in the cam lock posts. If you strip one out, remember you can epoxy that post back in and any chipped fragments.All of the air quote “wood” pieces are surfaced excepting the towel bar. The surfacing is a very thin plastic material. It will ding and scratch easily so assemble this on a clean and flat surface with a beach towel, blanket, or some other soft pad as mentioned in the instructions. I’m pretty sure the surfacing is vinyl.The boxing aka packaging is well done. Double boxed and there is a gold mine of Styrofoam in there. Have you priced Styrofoam lately? Several large pieces that can come in handy for many projects.Bottom line, half decent rolling island for the price. If you are looking for highest quality materials, you will not find it at this price point. Keep in mind that MDF is inferior in every way, it will separate and come apart with high humidity/moisture, it is weaker and will sag with constant load, and is far heavier. This unit has two shelves and they are indeed surfaced MDF like the rest of it. Don’t plan on putting anything heavy on these shelves or they will sag with time. Think box of cereal kind of weight. Move heavier items to the ends where they are closer to the pins.So here is the conundrum. Do you rate it 5 stars because it’s CHEAP and you have realistic expectation management skills? Or do you rate it 1 star because it is well…CHEAP?For us, it fit the bill both in looks and price. YMWV, just don’t be surprised.
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