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Este interruptor es un reemplazo adecuado para interruptores de metal y madera similares.
Este interruptor de paleta monofásico de doble voltaje está clasificado para motores de 110 V, 2 HP de hasta 35 amperios y 220 V, 3 motores HP de hasta 20 amperios.
El interruptor se puede desactivar y bloquear insertando un candado a través del botón ON/START. Bloquear el interruptor de esta manera puede evitar el funcionamiento no autorizado de la máquina, lo cual es especialmente importante si la máquina no está almacenada dentro de un edificio con acceso restringido.
La pala grande hace que este interruptor sea ideal para apagados de emergencia.
Construido para durar
HP nominal a 110 V: 2 HP HPRated a 220V: 3 Rango de voltaje HPRed: 110 V/220 V. Tamaño del eje del candado: 3/16 pulgadas
Dave
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 4 de julio de 2024
I owne a jet jointer (6 inches) and the switch failed disabling my machine. I turned to Jet to see if I could order a replacement switch. Backordered for months. So I checked out the guts of the dead switch and it turns out the same switch is used in this device as was used on my original jet jointer. Received the switch in two days, switched it out (wiring is very straightforward), and am back in business. Hope this is helpful for someone.
Mr Fixalot
Comentado en México el 9 de junio de 2022
Su reacción es instantánea para apagar flujo eléctrico. El ancho del interruptor es muy conveniente sin tener que mirar donde se activa.
G.
Comentado en Australia el 12 de julio de 2021
The action of the switches requires a lot of force to engage the ON and OFF buttons. The paddle switch is helpful to activate the OFF button (it is easier to use). THE BIGGEST ISSUE is that there is no cover panel or mounting panel making this (1) dangerous to users if wiring is not appropriately protected, and (2) the lack of a mounting plate creates more complications for the buyer. I got my unit to work HOWEVER I had to source and buy extra parts which was a difficult activity for this unit. Buyer beware!
Chris
Comentado en Canadá el 9 de septiembre de 2020
Used on my Tablesaw. The switch is large, so I bought a plastic back-box that looked like it would accommodate the switch; it does, BUT the front plate of the switch does not have standard holes to screw into a box. It has bolts that go through the plastic front and through a metal strap of the switch mechanism. The spacing of these screws is also a bit too much for a standard box.I had to remove the bolts/nuts, lengthen the bolt holes a bit, with a Dremel grinding rod, then use the bolts without the nuts to screw right through into the back-box. The plastic front, with paddle, is loose from the switch mechanism throughout this mounting process until the screws are tight.Also, the switch is designed for ring terminals, so you must crimp ring terminals to your wires. Once this is done and the parts assembled into the box, it works fine. Much better than my old, old light switch in a metal box on the side of the table stand. I drilled though the table frame to mount the box and switch flush with the front of my saw table leg-frame. I t is now easy to reach for on or off and I can knock it off with my knee while holding the wood steady after a cut.Definitely a good improvement over a simple old light switch.While the front plate and switch-block were apart, I also put a thin smear of thick grease on the front of the large buttons of the switch-block, to reduce friction between those and the front plate buttons.Works much more smoothly now.
Cliente de
Comentado en México el 13 de junio de 2019
le quedo excelente a mi maquina
Warren
Comentado en Canadá el 23 de marzo de 2019
As many have said, the installation instructions are skimpy but at least show you where the load and line are. Solid switch and works well once put together. A few recommendations when assembling a box to house the switch:1. Box should be at least 2 1/8" deep. Do not use PVC if you want to build this solid and mount to a stationary tool.2. Oddly enough, use a 4" x 4" x 2 1/8"d box with a riser plate. and assemble the switch to the riser plate.3. The provided screws are larger than a normal boxes plate holes. Either ream out and re-thread, or get new screws4. Use 2 strain relief connectors for the wires going in/out of the box.5. Size your power tool, and select wire size no less than 14ga, but no larger than 12ga (recommended)5a: A good 12/3 outdoor extension cord, like what is sold by Amazon basics is a cheap way to get up to 30' of wire on this switch (no more than 30')6. Ensure you have a good crimp on your connectors. Do a pull testFinal thoughts: If you are replacing a switch on an existing tool, this is a good, cost effective safety switch. If you are going to build an entire assembly to save on costs, plan it out and compare to a pre-made. Only build if you need the cord length (my build was about $75 CDN).
CARPINTERIA OKUMEX
Comentado en México el 16 de febrero de 2018
la use en mi sierra de banco y hasta ahorita no ha fallado, buena opcion para proyectos caseros o semi industriales
Sir-Fix-A-Lot
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 21 de octubre de 2015
I use these all the time. Very sturdy, The "on" switch takes some effort to press, which is good for no accidental operation of equipment. I have not broken the stop paddle yet. Behind the paddle is a regular stop button in red, so not a disaster if it breaks. The wiring is simple (use a meter to figure out continuity). You need a deep box (~2 1/8 min) and the screws are metric, so you need to swap out for SAE to fit the threads of the typical stamped steel boxes. Due to clearance between the bezel and the switch body, you may have to add a small spacer or stack of small washers to keep from crushing the bezel against the switch body in case you over tighten the screws. Depending on the machines existing box, I generally have to spend an hour tweaking this or that, but they always look and work great. Imported, but good quality.
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