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No hay artículos en el carrochris hagg
Comentado en Canadá el 3 de enero de 2025
These motor controllers work well with big DC motors. You can only run one motor off of each one. You do not have to use all of the pins to control the device with arduino or esp32. R_ls and L_ls can be left with no connection. The enable pins can simply have 5v applied directly or can be switched. The only thing that might be of concern is the heat sink is on the other side of the board from the mosfets. I really don't think that they will dissipate any heat the unit heats up under high load.
Tom B.
Comentado en Canadá el 19 de enero de 2025
I was expecting to use a pair of these with a 36V battery pack to drive hoverboard motors. I probably still will, but the idle current issue is another reason to try to build a more sophisticated solution.
Jackie D Hanson
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 19 de enero de 2023
I have the Hall Sensor version. Spent a lot of time finding the correct phase wiring order. But hardest part was getting the PWM to work.First:The jumper is needed, mine was just solder pads so I soldered pins and put jumper. Refer to the picture linked to this product.Second:The tiny 5 pin pads on the same side as the jumper, the Vcc and Gnd are same as the screw terminal (for pot). You will need to solder a pin to the one marked "P". I used the screw terminals for Vcc and Gnd (caution, they are 5v). PWM connection to the "P" pin and you are good to go.I am using SEEED nRF52840 and it is 3.3v but it has a 5v pin, I power it off the motor driver and the PWM works great with only 3.3v output from digital pin. I'm running at 20k PWM freq.Only 4 stars as no documentation and a lot of trial and error to run down the wiring.Ok, I changed to 5 stars as I found that the middle pin on the side with my last picture with clip is "PULSE" output. I used interrupt to count the pulses and then divided by 12 to get one revolution.
Customer
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 21 de abril de 2023
It took a little bit to figure out the wiring. I was able to crack open my 36V hub motor and clearly read the labels but they didn't correspond to the motor controller.I did have to short the Jumper.As far as getting it to work with an Arduino:- I used an Arduino Nano to test.- Used the PWM.h library to set the pin frequency to 20khz- Connected one Arduino pin to "DIR" line and set pin to "HIGH" or "LOW" for Fwd and Rev.- Used the "G" (Ground), "P" (PWM) and V (5V) connections located by the Jumper to connect to the Arduino. This powered the Arduino as well.Sample code (I am not the best programmer but it worked):// Sample Code for one motor#include //Used to set pwm frequency to 20khzint Direction = 10; // pin connected to the "Dir"int Motor = 9; // pin connected to "P" PWM Signal input"int32_t frequency = 20000; //frequency (in Hz) 20khzvoid setup() {//initialize all timers except for 0, to save time keeping functionsInitTimersSafe();//sets the frequency for the specified pinbool success = SetPinFrequencySafe(Motor, frequency);//if the pin frequency was set successfully, turn pin 13 on (Built in LED)if (success) {pinMode(13, OUTPUT);digitalWrite(13, HIGH);}pinMode(Direction, OUTPUT);}void loop() {digitalWrite(Direction, HIGH); //Set direction clockwisepwmWrite(Motor, 200); //Spin motor between 0-255, in this case 200delay(5000); // for 5 secondspwmWrite(Motor, 0); //Spind motor downdelay(3000); //for 3 secondsdigitalWrite(Direction, LOW); //Set direction counter clockwisepwmWrite(Motor, 200); //Spin motordelay(5000); // for 5 secondspwmWrite(Motor, 0); //Spin motor downdelay(3000); //for 3 seconds}
BM
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 25 de octubre de 2020
I bought two, to control two motors.At first, control was terrible. Very jerky, pulling high current. After investigation, swapping the motor lines made it work correctly. But, the motors being driven had colour coded wires and labels that were connected to match the controller inputs - its 50/50 whether its the motor or the controller that has the logic wrong.But, end result was that I could control the motors, from a power supply as the source.I took out the other controller and changed to use a battery source for power, there was a large spark at the connection. Surprised, I flinched away, and then connected again almost straight away. Not sure what went wrong there - the plug was polarised, so I couldnt have reversed it, but the controller stopped working after that. Something has blown on the 5V logic, the 'on' led wasnt lighting up.(though it did briefly). I dont really know what happened, but I dont know for sure that I didnt cause that. I ended up ordering another one to replace it, so fingers crossed.I installed a proper switch with the remaining controller and was able to get it powered off a battery (42V) without sparks or failures.So, overall, yes, they work, but be careful of wiring labels and potential inrush current problems.
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