MOOG K100173 - Buje de alineación para Chrysler 300

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Note: this product contains two bushings, for one corner of suspension. One bushing is straight and the other stepped. This is NOT a kit for BOTH back wheel positions. Buy two kits to correct camber in both rear wheels. It took me receiving one box to realize this. Easy press in. On my Chrysler Lx car, it was easy and did not require some of the complicated steps described in some videos and other forums. Safely place that corner of car on jackstand, remove wheel, remove bolt from camber link at the knuckle/hub, press out old bushing, press in new, replace bolt, go to tension link. Remove that bolt at knuckle/hub. Press out old bushing, press in new, BUT BE CAREFUL. THIS bushing is a stepped bushing, and the smaller end must go in back to front and stop when bushing meets the like female stepped part. On both bushings, there should be roughly the same amount of outer bushing sleeve showing as was with original bushings. Mark with sharpie to confirm when you e pressed them in enough. I over pressed my first stepped bushing and distorted the outer sleeve/shell and had to use a c clamp to correct my mistake. My rear camber was at negative 2.5 on one side, and negative 2.0 on the other, where spec is negative 0.55, with allowable to positive 0.5, and negative 1.0. Being spec’d as corrective up to 1.5 degrees, and needing roughly 2.0 degrees correction, I expected to come up short with these corrective bushings, and was prepared to get adjustable control arms. Wrong. One side ended up exactly 0 degrees , the other was negative 0.5 degrees. Right rear can be slightly negative within 1 degree to counter drive weight and road crown. Cross camber(side to side difference) limit is 1.0 degree, with 0 degrees suggested. Camber will always steer towards direction of lean, but 1 degree is so slight that tire wear from scrubbing is basically not measurable. Besides, the tires will be annihilated/vaporized well before scrub ruins them. My specs are straight out of the Chrysler LX shop manual. All in, worked BETTER than expected. Car drives arrow straight, got rid of slight rear end wavering at highway speeds, and it even will FOLLOW some roads with very slight furrows!! All done at home and BETTER than the dealership with their zillion dollar machine. I will admit quite a lot of trial and error and steep learning curve, even thought I already knew A LOT about alignment. I did know a lot. But I learned a lot as well. I used lasers very carefully aligned with tire sidewalls to check overall toe and thrust angle. Thrust angle is net angle that any toe of rear wheels makes. If this is more than 0.1 degrees from dead center, correct rear toe first. Simple toe plates may not discover this issue. As toe can appear correct, with both tires parallel according to the toe plates and measuring tape. But let’s say left rear is toe-out(+) 1 degree and right rear is toe-in(-) 1 degree, they would appear parallel, and would be parallel, but compared to the rest of the car, they are both turning left, making the car steer right. That’s a bad thrust angle, negative 1 degree. You could spend eternity trying to correct a “pull” where all other measurements show a correct alignment. Who would think that a car that seemed to pull to the right, but was really steering to the right, had anything OTHER than front wheels that needed correction? That would take experience to realize. The difference between a car that “pulls” vs “steers” is that the steering wheel will turn slightly in one direction, which means the car is pulling the steering wheel that way, causing the need to correct by turning the steering wheel slightly opposite the pull. A car that is steering incorrrectly means that it “goes” one way even without the steering whee turning at all, and needs correction at the steering wheel to drive straight. This means it is steering from the rear. One exception to this would. be a net zero toe setting at the front wheels, meaning they are parallel, but are both pointed one direction the same amount. Still parallel, and apparently correct toe setting, but wrong. Toe needs to have a reference, not just the wheels being near parallel, which is what toe plates can do for you, check parallel. You must reference the wheels relationship with the chassis, or you are screwed right out of the gate. Caster dictates the tendency for de front wheels to self-straighten, but in more aggressive settings, can help a front tire “lay over” on its shoulder when turning, where effector camber is increased by the laying over of the tire onto its shoulder during a turn. This is commonly observed in Mercedes and BMW cars. Alas, the Chrysler LX platform was patterned after the MB E Classs and S Class of the early 2000’s generation

Way cheaper than an adjustable arm but beware, these are a press in fitting and will fit going in and out easily. Once installed, there is no adjustment and have to be removed to make camber degree changes.

Product is for one side in the rear if your lowered 1.5 and less and have camber issues these bushing will do your camber link outer bushing and compression link outer bushing get your rear back in alignment.

Used them on a 2016 Chrysler 300. Had a bad camber issue in the back. Fixed the issue perfectly. Installing these were pretty easy. Definitely recommend.