Paul Miller
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 6 de febrero de 2025
I've been using these for years, been through a lot of them, and have never had an issue with a single one. Fantastic for guitar pedal builds and whatever else you can dream up.
Mrs B.
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 6 de febrero de 2025
Easy to solder to, connects very well and is a reliable socket, will buy again if I ever use them all up.
Longhorn
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 26 de febrero de 2025
I am constantly repairing electronics with blown power supplies. My pet peve is that everyone uses the same size leads, so this size, 2.1x5.5 is on both 12 and 24 v power supplies. Last weak I damaged a 12v medication refrigerator because I plugged it into the wire next to it, but it's proper wire was the next one over. So it got hit with 24v, which damaged but did not destroy the unit. epair I am replacing the onboard charging port with one I install near it. but my port will be good for 7 to 36 volts, and will be able to take a wider range of questionable power sources.This package of connectors will get a lot of use. I will generally couple them with a buck or buck/boost power module if I am repairing or retrofitting something for a new power source, or some combination of power module and BMS if I am charging battery. In today's task, the power port works if the battery is charged, and the battery works. But if the battery is down to cut-out voltage, nothing works. So I will bypass the charger, and charge the battery directly which will also power the cooler. this will stock my parts bin for a lot of repairs. I have a half box of 12v wall warts I bought 20 years ago, this will be what those eventually plug into as I repair that next thing...
Peter
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 3 de abril de 2025
Perfect
Mark in Santa Monica
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 21 de abril de 2024
These days, many guitar effects use a DC jack with the tip negative. This means that a standard jack with the outer contact connected to the case and chassis is a problem, as it would connect the chassis to the positive supply, potentially creating a short to the power supply ground.. The solution is to use a jack like these that is isolated from the chassis. These do the job just fine for me.It’s worth noting that this means that the exterior is plastic, not metal. You have to avoid over-tightening the mounting nut, and you should use good soldering technique and avoid overheating. A tip for the novice: Always apply flux first to the connector and to the wire. Solder will flow quickly, making it less likely that you will melt the plastic.