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ACCESORIOS
Proporciona aún más rendimiento a tus valiosos kits de alimentador con estos accesorios definitivos de American Hunter.
JOE
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 23 de diciembre de 2024
This is the cheapest most economical way to add legs to your drum feeder.
GregS
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 25 de octubre de 2024
They're long and they're strong and the deer get the friction on
Mike Kirwan
Comentado en Canadá el 10 de agosto de 2020
Great
M. Bracken
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 26 de agosto de 2019
Tried one last year on 31 gallon galvanized trash can for my hopper. Worked great. Easy to install. Held up in wind etc. of lower Alabama. I just mounted a second set and will buy a third later this summer.Update : 2 years and two sets. Holding up well. No rusting. I slide on pipes to make length I want. Galvanized cans trash cans hold more than most commercial hoppers and far more durable. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Garbil Huler
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 31 de octubre de 2016
Even as a shade tree welder/fabricator, I'd be hard pressed to duplicate the contents of this kit with included hardware for the $19 that I paid.The kit includes sturdy thick tube and reinforcing plates to go inside the drum to prevent deformation under the weight of a full feeder. Nice touch.The tubing is just a little too small to snugly fit inside the 1 3/8 chain link top fence rail that most people use for deer feeder legs, which makes the feeder a pain to move around (legs drop off when you pick it up) and also may eventually oval out the tubing which can lead to kinking. I attached a pic showing what I mean and took one star away.This is a far sturdier setup than the kinked conduit legs of the American Hunter 55 gallon feeder that dicks sporting goods sells for $139 on sale. A $30 barrel, $15 for three 5' top rails, a $10 water heater pan for a lid, $40 for a pro moultrie timer feeder unit, and $20 for this kit and you have a much nicer, sturdier feeder all around for $30 less, and with no fab work needed.A neat trick for marking your mounting locations for the legs:Mark a line across the bottom at the widest part of your barrel and measure it. This is the diameter of your barrel. Divide that in half and mark your barrel center line. Divide that in half again and mark that (a quarter of the way across your first line). Use a builders square or T square to make a second line at a right angle to the first that extends to the edge of the barrel. Where that line meets your barrel edge are two of your mounting locations. The third is the opposite end of your first line. Neat trick. I used a builders square off the bottom of the barrel to mark my vertical mounting locations. I attached a pic for you visual learners.
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